A whole, poached, lemon—tempered by sugar and puréed—enlivens the dressing for this wintery salad of shaved fennel, charred squid, and four types of citrus.
In a small saucepan, cover the whole lemon with water and bring to a boil. Drain the lemon, return it to the pan and repeat boiling the lemon two more times with fresh water and drain. In the saucepan, bring the lemon, 1 cup sugar, and 2 cups water to a boil and cook for 3 minutes. Transfer the lemon to a blender along with 6 tablespoons of the syrup and purée until smooth; discard the remaining syrup. Pour and press the purée through a fine sieve into a bowl and discard the solids.
In a large bowl, cover the fennel and onion with ice water and let stand for 10 minutes. Drain and transfer to paper towels to dry thoroughly. Transfer the fennel and onion to the bowl with the vinaigrette and toss to combine. Lift the fennel and onion from the dressing and transfer to a large serving platter. Arrange all the citrus segments evenly over the fennel and onion and drizzle the remaining vinaigrette over the top.Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over high for 5 minutes.
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