See every look from Fendi's fall 2023 menswear collection:
Fashion is complex, but it doesn’t have to be complicated: Mirroring the collection it produced, Silvia Fendi’s intention for her namesake house’s fall collection was relaxed and playful. As she said in a hastily-grabbed cusp-of-show moment: “I was thinking about having a good time—feeling great with fashion during the day but also during the night.” The execution of that intention, however, was deeply sophisticated.
This was a collection that you could inhabit as a cocooning, swaddling, comforting hug that also allowed you to inhabit the Fendi-fashioned characteristics of a 1970s creature of the night, with varying degrees of balance on the conventional masculine/feminine scale. The second aspect—the night moves—came via Fendi’s hankering to recall her days of disco .
The shimmering facets of a disco ball and the one-shouldered mid-length shape of an archetypal ’70s disco dress were the two chief ingredients imposed to create a jolt of surprise in an otherwise comforting—but not always exactly what it seemed—landscape of clothing. The one-shoulder chorus was visible across the collection and occasionally we saw its equivalent hem too, most often in the closing-section gray suiting sometimes hung with little F-shaped and circular baubles.
Other cashmere knits, both-shouldered this time, came with disguisable in-built collars to afford formality without the trouble of slipping on all the garments usually required. More trompe l’oeil touches included pale shearlings sprayed with dark paint to resemble long-worn and loved leathers. There was a lovely lavender sideline in leathers layered over felted and fringed cashmeres. Two highlight bags, in shearling, came crafted to look like baguettes .
There was another new piece of hardware in a cascading and connected cluster of Fs—there were five of them—used on earrings and chains and meant to symbolize house founder Eduardo’s quintet of dynamic daughters: Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla and Adda. This was designed by Silvia’s daughter, Delfina Delettrez Fendi. This house has a long history of collaborative partnerships, but its DNA runs deep and true; this was another satisfying chapter in its story.
France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités
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