.LouisVuitton is switching to a seasonless, itinerant model of men's shows.
As the fashion world grapples with how to deal with the fallout of the coronavirus pandemic, Louis Vuitton is upending its men’s wear schedule and switching to a seasonless, itinerant model of fashion shows, beginning with physical runway displays in Shanghai on Aug. 6 and in Tokyo at a later date.
“Instead of the doom and gloom, sort of panic approach, I looked at it like, ‘Oh, this is the new frontier that we’ve been asking for in fashion,’” he continued. “We’re in a new era. I feel like this is the pandemic of 2020 with the hard stop between fashion as it was before, and I’m interested in this sort of investigation.”
Back in March, Vuitton closed the last round of shows before the lockdown with its women’s wear collection, designed by Nicolas Ghesquière. “It was a surreal moment in Paris,” the executive recalled. “There was this sense of doom and imminent danger.” Since then, the future of physical events has been thrown into question.
Both men stressed the playful element of the approach, which ties in with Abloh’s ongoing exploration of boyhood. “You have to bring back fun because the last time we were together, it was sad and deadly,” Burke said.
“My shows will now travel the world, the beginning and ends of season won’t be on the invite,” he said. “It’s one continuous flow that has a little bit of new and some things you’ve seen before. And philosophically, when it comes to the sustainability idea, I’m starting to collapse all the seasons into one.”
The interior of the Louis Vuitton Shibuya men’s store in Tokyo. Yasuhiro Takagi/Courtesy of Louis Vuitton Abloh noted his debut show in June 2018 already reflected his globalized outlook. The show notes included a map of the world dotted with the cities where his models were born. “All the regions of the globe trigger different ideas when you place the epicenter there, and that to me is going deeper in the brain on inclusivity,” he said.
“Louis Vuitton is one of the most gender-fluid houses in existence. And that’s because we were not born as a couture house. We were not born as the emanation of a singular individual. We were born as a trunk-maker, and we evolved into fashion, but we were born genderless,” he noted. “With COVID-19, I’m not gonna lie, as I’m sitting in hoodies and T-shirts every day and we’re sitting in our house, how can you switch your brain on to fashion?” he confessed.
“But that shouldn’t prevent us from doing the right thing. I’ve spoken to Virgil a lot about this, and we agree that the filter that we have to use is the filter that is long-term. We can’t be judged in a split second,” he added. “Everything we do has to survive the test of time. And that makes it a little bit painful in the short term, but that’s the way it is. It’s the new paradigm.”“I don’t think anybody can own the rainbow. It’s universal.
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