The DressedUndressed spring 2023 collection is here. See every look:
“Lovers, 1994,” in which images of bodies interact and dissolve into darkness. “The previous [season]was a deconstruction and reconstruction of ‘Lovers, 1994,’ and this [season] is an expansion of that work,” explains the designer who has worked the theme in video format and in the design and presentation of the collection, rendered mostly in blacks and grays and shot on a black background.
Both collections, viewed with no knowledge of the framework, are focused on beautiful, monochrome tailoring, which Kitazawa uses as a carapace to contain what he describes as “our uncertain human bodies.” Bodies, which the designer views as existing beyond the confines of gender and abetting the self-determination of the wearer. Last season, the idea of seeing yourself through clothing seemed to be symbolized by the designer’s use of mirror embellishments.
In contrast to the tailored looks, which are so precise and pure, the closing ones , serve the collection narrative more than the wardrobe. Still, the symbolism is strong. Both fall and spring collections move from dark to light. “I want to believe in the light that human beings have; we hope that our actions will create new light,” says Kitazawa, who this season changed out carnations for lilies of the valley. He explains they carry the message that “happiness will come again.
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