ReaderArchives: Yum cha is fine at this rare tearoom outside of Chinatown, but it’s the Guangdong chef specials that are really worth investigating. | MikeSula
, Phoenix, and MingHin. Fang worked at the last for close to a decade as a server, but shrewdly chose to parlay his experience in the middle of a dim sum desert.
Fang threw down a glove when D Cuisine opened in early June, not just for the location he chose, but for the promise of dim sum made in-house daily. That may be the case, but I experienced such a variety in execution among the bites I tried that it sometimes made the effort seem irrelevant.
But what the restaurant really has going for it are Yu’s Guangdong chef specials. These include a superb Guangzhou-style whole roasted chicken, with crispy burnished skin and flesh from thigh to breast gravid with unreleased juices waiting to burst forth. A log pile of asparagus is shrouded in a gossamer veil of egg white and crabmeat.
France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités
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