This cheesy South American bread goes by many names, but whether you call it pão de queijo, cuñapes, or pan de bono, it's always equally delicious.
. These unique qualities of tapioca starch endow it with the texture of melted cheese even before any cheese is added. The combination of this texture along with the flavor of the salty and savory cheese is what makes biting into this bread feel like you're eating warm cheese by the doughy fistful. Who could resist?
Once you've gotten a handle on how the dough should look and feel, the cheese possibilities are endless. You may need to adjust the amount of liquid or butter in the dough depending on the water and fat content of each cheese, but after some simple tweaks the bread will bake up just fine with anything from a pungent blue to a briny feta.Regardless of what cheese you choose, one of the biggest factors is whether you use chopped or shredded cheese.
Some recipes call for scalding the milk and others use cold milk instead. Dough made with scalded milk more evenly incorporates the cheese and bakes up into a uniform, round roll. On the other hand, dough made with cold milk leaves little clumps of cheese, which will burst through the bread's crust during baking to form a crisp and crackly edge. It's just a matter of personal preference, as well as regional habits—feel free to choose to scald or not scald.
If it's your first time making cheesy bread, I strongly recommend using a scale until you get accustomed to the texture of the dough. This dough feels very different from dough made with wheat flour. Immediately after mixing it appears both runny and thick, while after the overnight rest it's brittle and dry. After you get an understanding of how the dough should feel, run wild: eyeball quantities, try different cheeses, add seasonings.
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