Perfect for mopping up gravy.
I love soft and fluffy Parker House rolls as much as anyone, but when faced with the creamy casseroles, buttery mashed potatoes, sausage stuffing, pan-drippings-turned-gravy, and all those other uber-rich classics, what I crave is something lean and crusty. And there's nothing wrong with classic hard rolls, but without a steam-injected oven, they're never quite as crusty as I'd like.
I tried smashing the two techniques together, and, while it was instantly apparent that I'd committed an unspeakable crime against bagels, the result was a mighty fine dinner roll—chewy like French bread, but more tender because of the yukone, with a crisp and crackling crust thanks to that bagel-style dip in boiling water.
Freshly made, this roux-like paste will be hot enough to kill the yeast at first, so let the yukone cool down to somewhere between 70 and 100°F . From there, you'll pulse the remaining flour with yeast, sugar, and salt in a food processor, then add the yukone and remaining water. Arrange the rolls on a parchment-lined half sheet pan, cover with plastic, and refrigerate until they're roughly doubled in size—between eight and 10 hours. This is a great dough to make ahead and proof overnight.
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