🎶 Don’t fear the cleaver, baby take my hand. 🎶
, explained to me in her Soho kitchen recently, cai dao actually means “vegetable cleaver.” The term alone challenged my Western cooking sensibilities. Prepping onions, ginger, and peppers requires, not brute force. On that point, Young agreed. But she assured me that the vegetable cleaver, despite its shape, was the perfect tool for just that kind of precise work. “Meat cleavers are intended to cut through bones,” Young explained. “With the vegetable cleaver, you have more control.
But the value of any knife is in the slicing—and the dicing, smashing, and julienning. In order to train me in proper cai dao technique, Grace and I will cook a—that requires a range of knife cuts. First things first: Young shows me how to hold the cleaver. “You want a pinch grip. You're really squeezing the handle with your thumb and forefinger, and your forefinger is relaxed, and your other three fingers are holding the handle,” she explains.
“The reason why you want slices to be uniform is because if you're stir-frying and all the pieces are the same size, they will cook at the same time,” Young explains. In reply I begin muttering to myself about the shameful nature of my carrot slabs. Young encourages me. “It's going to take you a little while," she says. "The first slice is always the hardest.”
Thankfully, julienning the celery is far easier on me than those tough root vegetables. I just follow Young’s lead, cutting the trimmed stalks into 2-inch segments before turning them rounded-side down and cutting them into scant ¼-inch matchsticks .
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