Every week the takeout restaurant Zaza Lazagna offers two types of lasagna: a traditional red-sauce iteration and a more whimsical special, often inspired by pasta dishes that don’t travel as well.
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A recent salad special featured romaine, radicchio, shaved Parmesan, parsley, and Pecorino-crusted croutons in a thick dressing somewhere between a Caesar and a Green Goddess. When she closed the restaurant, in 2016, “we were kind of at the height of our popularity,” she told me recently, but she was feeling burned out, and transitioned to consulting and catering. At Brucie, she had offered a charming service: B.Y.O. pan, and they’d bake you a lasagna to eat at home.
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