Five years after launching, the London-based brand is moving into the highest level of tailored clothing.
tailors. Now it’s taking the next logical step, launching a bespoke service of its own. “I believe in this peculiar model of retail,” Grantham says. “Opening bespoke is a big testament to that.” The brand has a strong e-commerce offering but is doubling down on the local and in-person. “We’ve gone the wrong way round, from ready-to-wear to cloth and to bespoke, without the safety of wholesale.”
Grantham’s earlier role, at the multi-brand store The Armoury in New York and Hong Kong, paved the way for bespoke. “At The Armoury, they were doing amazing things,” he recalls. It was an introduction to Italian tailoring for many customers, not just in style but in substance: “a spotlight onto craft, tailoring at its most finessed, its most pure.” He talks about tailors the way athletes talk about one of their own: conscious of the rigor and ingenuity it takes to be on the top of their game.
The brand’s apparently backward journey makes sense. English tailoring houses have long outsourced their ready-to-wear offering to Italy, sometimes producing garments with very little connection to their bespoke. The Italian approach is to make ready-to-wear and bespoke in the same fashion, piece by piece. The only difference is the level of customization and handwork. Anglo-Italian is tweaking what Italian tailors already do so well, not reinventing their form.
“It’s an uncertain time in terms of tailoring,” he says. “People are looking for direction. We’ve just had our best ever month for shirts, suits and ties, but you have to have very strong handwriting. A strong point of view.”
France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités
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