Tasting Notes: Bon Appétit, food media and the need for change
The prompt for the piece was an unprecedented sweep of awards for Black chefs at the year’s James Beard Foundation awards; Edouardo Jordan, chef-owner of Solare and JuneBaby in Seattle, and Dolester Miles, pastry chef of Highlands Bar and Grill in Birmingham, Ala., were among the winners.
Where, though, were the Black arbiters and reviewers to help shape the championing and enlighten diners and readers about overlooked chefs and future stars? The accolades highlighted for Richardson “just how rare an occurrence this kind of acclaim is for Black chefs, writers and journalists, and how performative it can feel when white-led institutions make a point to champion certain African Americans while ignoring others.
The answer to the question in her headline remains “none.” To my knowledge there are no Black journalists regularly employed as restaurant critics in America. Food criticism is a dying profession; I made a list earlier this year, before COVID-19, and counted fewer than 50 working food critics in America. It is no excuse. We need Black critics.Even in this moment, it remains my job to report on the pluralism of Los Angeles.
We have the most diverse Food section staff in The Times’ history. The ending of Richardson’s piece sticks in my brain, though. She quotes, an activist and writer in San Francisco. “I don’t really care about diversity,” Simley says in the article. “I care about equity and I care about justice. Those are two very, very different things … not just having folks of color at the table but putting them at the head of the table and having their voices be the ones that are leading.
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