Beyond Erewhon: Inside the L.A. grocery store where all the cool vegans are flocking

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Beyond Erewhon: Inside the L.A. grocery store where all the cool vegans are flocking
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Besties Vegan Paradise market's brand of veganism is infused with hip-hop, streetwear, tattoos and other youth culture

On a rainy Saturday afternoon in late March, a block of East Hollywood is unusually quiet but for the corner of Fountain Avenue and North Edgemont Street. There, a line snakes halfway around the perimeter of a little vegan grocery store that's sparking with activity. Inside, grime music blasts as a pop-up vendor doles out vegan banh mi to shoppers who clutch bamboo toilet paper and vegan lox.

“The reason this place feels so authentic is because they’re making healthy choices for themselves — they’re walking the walk — but they’re cool kids too, and that makes it realistic. You can do it too,” said Besties customer D'Andrée Galipeau, a DJ who lives nearby and “leans vegan.” Fontana, 48, grew up in a Sicilian-American family in Brooklyn in the 1970s and ’80s immersed in the hip-hop culture of the time. “Anything anti-establishment,” he says.

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