See every look from AXTV's spring 2023 collection:
There’s no doubting that Antonio Tarantini can do sexy—he worked alongside Domenico Dolce, John Galliano at Dior, and Donatella Versace—but he chose not to when he launched his own line in 2020. His focus is still on the human form, but his explorations are sensual and nuanced.
Tarantini is on trend. Shirting has been prevalent for spring 2023, and he played with it in ingenious ways, using the placket to form curved seams and as straps framing exposed skin, or unbuttoned and attached in back to create a different shape. ATXV has been jersey-focused until now; the designer’s introduction of poplin is a way of expanding the line and showing his prowess with different materials. The fabric that looks like mesh is actually cotton lace.
In his previous collections, Tarantini eschewed surface decorations and worked with draping, cut, and layering to create patterns. This season, asymmetric and crisscross bras, visible through garments, were used to create abstract shapes on the skin. See his whisper-light and draped black slip dress paired with one of those underpinnings.
Tarantini’s early collections had more off-duty-dancer and goddess touches; for spring he downplayed those aspects of his work and played up the “cutouts” as others are taking them up. Maybe they’ll make a comeback for fall. In any case, this collection was a step forward for the designer in terms of materials, craftsmanship, and confidence. It was also another demonstration in Milan this week of the benefits of experience.
France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités
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