A new vibe from an NYFW mainstay.
To love a fading person is to live in constant limbo—bodies are fragile but spirits are not. Sometimes, a very sick loved one seems completely in the shadow realm, and then—like the flick of switchBrandon Maxwell does, anyway. The Texas-born designer has always used his beloved grandmother as a springboard for his shows, his sewing techniques, and his deep love of luxe American sportswear.
His Fall/Winter 2022 collection was a tribute to her and the family she built, including a closing floral print on Karlie Kloss that was originally designed—and painted in watercolor—by Maxwell's grandfather as part of"a literal valentine." It was also a working thesis on walking grief, a.k.a. the sadness we can haul around daily, even as we create joyful things. Colors were shades of gray and brown, silhouettes were kept like emotions—very close to the chest.
But though this show was an emotional exhale for Maxwell, it might be a boost for women looking for wardrobes that work smart instead of try hardBesides welcome brown-and-black color combos , Maxwell made double-collared trench coats in crinkled stiff silk, and massive suede bags for those who carry the world on their shoulders. There was also slim-cut denim, because it's chic no matter what TikTok says—especially paired with one of Maxwell's crisp white shirts.
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