As Michelin-starred chefs walk, mom-and-pop restaurants persevere against COVID challenges
Viviana Masarweh dumped more pots of coffee down Doyle Street Cafe’s drains than into warm mugs back in March 2020.
“I was crying every day. Every time I would see anyone – oh, my heart – it was emotional,” Viviana said.Tucked away in a cozy residential corner of Emeryville, Doyle Street Cafe’s story isn’t about a tragic closure, a grandiose reopening or a trendy new menu, designed with delicious virality in mind.
But just as two of the Bay Area’s most-celebrated chefs – David Kinch of Manresa and Aaron London of AL’s Place – are making news byand others like Carlos Carreira of Michelin-starred Adega in San Jose cast fine-dining destinations as a “dying breed,” some mom-and-pop restaurants like Doyle Street Cafe are carrying on, despite the obstacles, as the heart and soul of their communities.
Nina F. Ichikawa, executive director of the Berkeley Food Institute, said communities should prioritize sustaining mom-and-pop eateries and their prosperity over any glitzy, exorbitantly priced tasting menus. “When you put your food on a table and you see that happiness, this is our life,” said George, whose brother Albert jovially manages the front-of-house operations alongside Viviana. “This is joy for us. This is our home.”
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