The costume pros behind 'Empire of Light' and 'I Wanna Dance With Somebody' also weigh in on depicting an era of cultural upheaval, forward-thinking and creative expression.
The boys, in coordinating on-trend stripes, sneak away from a Guggenheim school trip anticipating an exhilarating Manhattan afternoon. Weeks imagined where Paul’s teacher mom, Esther , would have shopped for his mustard turtleneck and long-sleeve shirt. “James once said to me, ‘Think Sears,’ ” she recalls. Johnny flips through treasured vinyl in a brown and blue velour polo that his grandmother, suffering from dementia, may have procured in the neighborhood during more lucid times.
“Lee is a wanderer who travels dirty, with almost no one close with him. Most of his wardrobe is borrowed from people he has eaten,” explains director Luca Guadagnino’s go-to design colleague. For Lee’s eclectic, thrift-store style, Piersanti studied the “rebel subculture” of itinerant teenagers covertly boarding trains and traversing the country. “I wanted to bring to Lee the same sense of these outsiders’ strong personal style, carried with the carelessness of youth,” she says.
On New Year’s Eve, Stephen joins the theater’s lonely duty manager, Hilary , on the rooftop. As exploding fireworks ring in 1981, the audience viscerally feels her long-suppressed emotions emerge — also amplified through Stephen’s gleaming suit and jaunty fedora, which is essential to the two-tone “uniform.” Byrne explains that his suit silhouette is a “very, very specific thing” to the genre, with a three-button jacket and 5-inch vents.
Reflecting the real-life persona, Tucci’s Davis is “always dressed,” says Antoinette. “There’s never a time in the film where he’s just in a T-shirt.” To portray Davis’ “classic” music mogul style, she sourced pristine vintage in luxurious materials: “cashmeres, wools, wool-silk blend.” Antoinette also meticulously selected fabrics to replicate Davis’ recognizable power suits and shirts, all appropriately bespoke by Manhattan-based Leonard Logsdail and Anto in Beverly Hills, respectively.
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