Mexico City has emerged as one of the world's hottest travel destinations, but the pressures of success are putting one of its most prized culinary and cultural traditions at risk
to the city’s food scene. Some markets have benefited from the city’s newfound status as an international culinary hotspot. Mercado Michoacan sits at the intersection of several major streets in Condesa, the trendy neighborhood where there is now one Airbnb for every 10 homes. On a Tuesday afternoon, the market is buzzing with activity. One side has been converted into a Café Toscano, a bistro chain with a half-dozen destinations across the Roma and Condesa neighborhoods.
Ironically, though, increasingly, they don’t. The tourist who stays in an Airbnb and shops at the market in Condesa consumes a version of commodified authenticity that most locals can’t afford. A tourist from New Yorkpays for a month of rent.
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