Published in Food52’s new 'Simply Genius' cookbook, Nguyen’s recipe requires zero pressing or freezing
Andrea Nguyen. One of those myths, she notes, is the idea that tofu must be “forced into, you know, like a vise grip, so that it is so firm that it doesn’t fall apart.” Indeed, while Asian recipes more often accept tofu’s natural texture, techniques like pressing and freezing dominate Western tofu preparations. These not only imbue tofu with an unwarranted sense of fussiness, but they can elide one of tofu’s fundamental truths.
Consider this your sign to skip the full day of pressing a block between two wiggly cutting boards and a cast iron pan, and your permission to forget about that overnight marinade. “I was thinking people need a way to make tofu that’s less intimidating to prepare,” says Nguyen, whose soy-seared tofu recipe appears in Kristen Miglore’s, released by Ten Speed Press last week.
“I’ve eaten, cooked with, and written about tofu for many years,” adds Nguyen, the author of, among many titles, 2012’s. “I was like, let’s just let the damn thing release all its water in the pan.” While putting tofu in a pan and spooning soy sauce on top might sound counterintuitive, it works, Nguyen explains, creating tofu that is flavorful, tender on the inside, and crisp on the outside.
By cooking tofu in an unoiled pan with no marinade or coating, save for a spoonful of soy sauce on each side, you allow the tofu to first release the water from all its nooks and crannies. Then, as the water evaporates off, the tofu takes on flavor as it absorbs the soy sauce. Only when the soy sauce has evaporated from the surface do you add oil, since oil and water would otherwise prevent a good sear from forming.
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