Talking with Tien Nguyen and Diep Tran about 'The Red Boat Fish Sauce Cookbook'
touched on Vietnamese ingredients, and Roy’s had a couple of Vietnamese dishes too, but this was the first book I’ve written explicitly about Vietnamese food culture. And it’s notabout Vietnamese food, though it’s a big part of it, but it’s also about the Vietnamese American experience. The familiarity I have with the subject is on another level than the other books I’ve done. And I knew the product and liked it, so that helps. And yeah, I mean, obviously working with Diep was … different.
And Diep, you were familiar with the brand soon after it came on the market in the early 2010s. I remember you name-checked it with your “Red Boat bacon and eggs” dish on the brunch menu at Good Girl Dinette. Broadly speaking, before Red Boat, were you frustrated with the quality of fish sauce you could find in America, and did that inform how you approached cooking Vietnamese flavors here?
I felt like Red Boat’s entry into the market would inspire a generation of Vietnamese Americans — and Asian Americans — to think about the culinary legacies that they have. You know, soy sauce shouldn’t be an anonymous product either. But the taste of Red Boat was so excellent that I changed the recipes in my restaurant immediately. Which is insane, because here I am changing a 20-gallon recipe for pho, but I was so committed it wasn’t even a question.
TN: I wanted to reach myself, honestly. I kind of approach all of my writing that way: I want to write things that I would want to read or have been wishing was in the world. This was a chance for me to really get into the nuances of Vietnamese cooking in quite a bit of detail. There’s an entire section about making dipping sauce …TN: When I was working on it I wanted it to be helpful to me because every single time I would make nuoc cham I ended up with a tub of it.
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