Alison Cook: Christine Ha's Blind Goat in Houston has its ups and downs
Vibe:Mostly moderate. Apps $7-$19; most entrées $12-$24; large-format entrées $42-$49Advisable; via Tock; or call 346-298-1660 for parties of seven or more.The affluent types who have flocked to Spring Branch in recent years, in a wide range of ages and with the energy to make it sound like a party.Very loud inside when full.
The Texas BBQ Brisket Fried Rice, made with smoked beef from Feges BBQ a couple doors down, seemed like a solid idea in search of focus . I doctored the leftovers with a fried egg and Momofuku’s chili crisp, and remained unthrilled, wondering if sambal oelek might have done the trick. The “pie” looked exhausted. It made me reflect that Ha and Suh have been through a crucible in the last four years: opening their food-hall kiosk, navigating the pandemic downtown, opening, struggling through many months of construction and permitting delays here in Spring Branch, where they plan to open a drive-thru sandwich stand — visible in the front parking lot — sometime soon.
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