'I'm a self-confessed natural-wine skeptic,' writes columnist Lettie Teague. Looking to see what all the fuss is about, she ventured to natural-wine bars in New York City.
natural-wine skeptic. I’ve had some natural wines that were pleasant and many that were not. I just don’t get what the fuss is about. So I decided to taste the wines in their natural habitat: natural-wine bars. Perhaps I had been missing out on an important piece of the experience.
I started my natural-wine bar crawl at the Ten Bells, a veritable natural-wine institution. When it opened on the Lower East Side in 2008 it was one of few all-natural wine bars in New York; not many bars served natural wine, let alone made it their entire focus. After half-drinking our wines, we bid good night to the friendly Rusudan and walked down the street to our next destination: Skin Contact, a natural wine bar with an uber-natural-wine-bar name. We asked Noah the bartender to define “skin contact” for us. “At its most basic level it’s a white wine fermented with the skins on,” he said. This bar was a bit more modern and less rustic than the Ten Bells.
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