Following decades of turmoil during the 20th century, the German capital blazes with colour and invention, busy forging monuments to its new artistic movement from the ruins of its past.
If you’re looking for a symbol of Berlin’s 20th-century history, you could do a lot worse than the Teufelsberg. Rising out of the Grunewald forest, at the western edge of the city, this 375ft hill is made almost entirely out of the wreckage of the Second World War. Bricks mainly, but also broken lintels, smashed tiles and pock-marked stone: in the end, 26 million cubic metres of the stuff, cleared from Berlin’s streets, was dumped here over the half-finished shell of a military academy.
Pretty soon, the Teufelsberg became an unofficial open-air gallery of street art — and that status was officially confirmed in 2014. When it first opened, full time, to the public, 5,000 people a day were crowding in. Here, a black-haired woman, five storeys high, squats against a dark and troubled sky. The mottled paintwork of her skinny arms contrasts delicately with the faultless sheen of her boxing gloves, and in spite of her obvious frailty her look is one of pure defiance. ‘When David turned into Goliath’, the caption reads, alongside the names of a galaxy of era-defining high-achievers — all of them female. Even the resurgent vegetation looks wilted beside the strength of its conviction.
Meanwhile, across inner suburbs such as Neukölln, to the south, graffiti still clambers up every bare wall. I take it all in with Tobi Allers, a historian, part-time DJ and cultural tour guide, who explains just how deep the roots of Berlin’s renaissance run.
France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités
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