Spain’s aromatic white wines are perfect for springtime.
Last summer while I was visiting Barcelona, I made my way to the city’s best wine shop, Vila Viniteca, to say hello to its owner, Quim Vila. He was about to taste through a few wines in his office and suggested I sit in. The majority were white, and they were stunningly good: an eye-opening reminder that while Spain may be known best for its red wines, right now there’s tremendous energy and ambition to be found there in the white wine realm, too.
Albariño is Spain’s white wine success story, but for this column I wanted to concentrate on a few varieties now challenging its leadership role, particularly Garnacha Blanca and Godello. Garnacha Blanca, full-bodied but with bright acidity and a mix of citrus and stone-fruit flavors, grows mostly in Catalonia, in northeastern Spain.
I left Vila’s shop weighed down, as always, by a few great bottles I hadn’t planned on buying, so beware: If you try these wines, the same thing may well happen to you, too.Merseguera may be a variety that no one in the U.S. knows well, but based on this flinty, pear-inflected white from the area near Valencia, people ought to. The wine’s an absurdly good bargain, too.
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