California's top takes on this ever-popular wine are among the best whites you can put on the table this season.
A few years ago, I gathered with a panel of colleagues—wine and food critics and writers—around a table in Fort Bragg to decide which Mendocino wine was the best match for Dungeness crab that year.
Facing mounds of freshly shelled crab on our plates and a lineup of about eight Chardonnays, we took a collective deep breath , swirled and stuck our noses into the first glass, then sipped and chased the first sip with a little crab. There was a pause, and then one panelist, a prominent food editor from Los Angeles, said out loud what we were all thinking: “Well, if there’s ever a time for buttery California Chardonnay, it’s with Dungeness crab!” The pairing was fabulous.
The pairing is still fabulous. Only now, especially in the hands of the state’s best winemakers, Chardonnay has evolved into vibrant balance. It still carries sweet-seeming fruit—apple, pear, citrus and sometimes hints of stone fruit or pineapple—born of our warm, sunny growing season, making it a perfect foil for the sweet succulence of the crab.
In the resulting brightness and nuance of today’s great Chardonnays, terrific pairings can be found beyond crab across a range of the season’s best, and most comforting, dishes. Think butter-poached lobster , creamy seafood risotto , French onion soup , chicken and dumplings , Southern shrimp ‘n’ grits , traditional pork chops with spiced apples or even the oh-so-popular cacio e pepe.
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