From saucy pan con pollo in Huntington Park to protein-packed pastelitos in Pico-Union, here are 12 dishes that showcase the depth of Salvadoran cooking.
Walking Spanish, from chefs and spouses Rene and Stephanie Coreas, serves creative spins on Central American classics, such as pupusas inspired by birria de res, green goddess dressing, backyard asadas and Koreatown., the Arts District restaurant where they met. The closure left them on unsure footing, but despair quickly gave way to a new ambition: elevating Salvadoran flavors through a chef-driven pop-up.
“There’s no limit to the pupusas we can create,” said Rene. “We think outside the box and cook from the heart. I get the sense that there is a movement happening, especially in Los Angeles,” he added. “We are rewriting the narratives of our own community.” In Los Angeles, pupusas are often the go-to Salvadoran food; they’re affordable, easy to transport and widely available across restaurants, farmers markets and street stalls. But the cuisine of El Salvador, affectionately known as “El Pulgarcito de América” , has much more to offer.
Especially in light of the current “Salvi Renaissance,” a term coined by popular Salvadoran comedian Hoozay, which he uses to describe the resurgence of Salvadoran culture in L.A., particularly in theand food scenes. “Growing up Salvadoran in Los Angeles, I never felt represented. Being a part of this movement is important to me because it means my kids get to grow up with this kind of representation as the norm. We are laying the groundwork for generations to come,” he said.
Owning a restaurant has been Reyes’ lifelong dream, but he credits his aunt, Candida De La Luz, as one of his biggest motivations for opening his own place. “I’ve been watching and helping my tía in the kitchen since I was a kid,” said Reyes. “Owning a restaurant has always been her dream, but she never pursued it because, like many other immigrants, her focus was always on working to help her family.
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